A wonderful name for a vineyard is Squitchy Lane. Owner Mike Fitzpatrick (the ex-chairman of the AFL) lived on Squitchey Lane when he went to Oxford and thought this was the ideal name for his Yarra vineyard. The Squitchy block was planted in 1982, so there are runs on the board here – although this has historically been a grower vineyard. This is an intellectual Yarra Pinot, too – moody and not straightforward, with smoky, bunchy, spice-flecked ripe raspberry fruit and this bitter but layered palate. It’s licoricey, with a bit of x-factor darkness. That spicy, grippy finish isn’t necessarily easy, but there is plenty of interest. I liked it.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: good now, likely better next year
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 38
• Winery website: https://www.squitchylane.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: worth a few glasses