Review: Angove Brightlands Shiraz 2020

The fun foldout presentation box sets the tone. This inaugural Angove Brightlands Shiraz 2020 is the Angove family statement wine, a deadly serious expression of how far the brand has evolved. It’s quite a story, too, from Riverland cask pioneers to now diving deep into organic and regenerative McLaren Vale grapegrowing, particularly driven by the progressive viti actions of Richard Angove. You can add the addition of the A-grade Angels Rise Vineyard to the portfolio for further evidence of that particular Vale vineyard story arc, let alone the impressive, certified organic and biodynamic Warboys Vineyard. Ultimately, it’s so very welcome to see medium-sized family wine businesses like Angove realise that more sustainable premium wine and less cheap juice is the future.

This Brightlands, all 1140 bottles, uses fruit from the Warboys & Angels Rise Vineyards (the best barrel from each) in different parts of McLaren Vale (. It also feels like a flagship red, a deep, molten, powerful expression of ambition and density. It also has a particular 2020 Vale vintage mark to it, from the slightly forward nose to the black desiccation of the tannins, and the acidity is lumpy. It’s black, deep, warming, driven by the mid-palate intensity, and then getting heartier and throatier as it finishes.

What’s perplexing is how much livelier the less fancy Angels Rise Vineyard wine is. It’s almost like the barrel selection was for impact, and you miss all the interesting bits that the Clarendon juice gives. The Brightlands isn’t some ultra-heavyweight red, but it is more smudgy than spicy and complex—it’s good, undoubtedly premium McLaren Vale Shiraz, but ultimately, I’d prefer the more ‘real’ single vineyard expression.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and for a decade (or until it dries out)
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 14.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 125
• Winery website: https://www.angove.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass