Something of a component wine to the Brightlands Shiraz I was banging on about a week ago; this organic and biodynamic red comes from the Warboys Vineyard in McLaren Vale. Fudgey, smudgy, open-hearted and powerful with its dry, chewy caramel coffeed heartiness. Hello, 2020 in the Vale, with your endlessly dry summer and small berries. Indeed It has some of the drying, dusty caramel-forward ness of 2020 but a hearty flavour, too. Ultimately it needs a little more fruit to conquer the oak and tannin bitterness, but you get heartiness in droves and certainly long. I can’t shake the bitter, warm year finish, though.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now before it dries out
• Score (out of 20): 17.5
• Score (out of 100): 91
• Alcohol %: 14
• RRP (in $AUD): 50
• Winery website: https://www.angove.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass