There is an irresistible South Australian luscious charm that comes with reds like this 2021 Vicar. It’s a plushness, a roundness, a ripeness that is so enveloping and welcoming. Sometimes, it’s too much, and this McLaren Vale red looks a bit hefty, old school and oaky in some lights, but that’s kind of its thing. Proudly full-bodied and all that. Lots of dark plum fruit, plenty of oak (and the distinctive flavour of oak tannins), and acres of flavour. A strong, bold vintage of The Vicar that will only look better with a lay down in the cellar.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and for the next fifteen years easy
• Score (out of 20):
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %: 14.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 80
• Winery website: https://www.chapelhillwine.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a few glasses