At lunch earlier in the year, I wasn’t moved by this new ’23 Shaw & Smith Pinot Noir at all. But, like magic, this bottle looked much better (if probably not the greatest vintage). Wine is like that, hey, a moveable beast. I’m grumpy sometimes too (or at least I have a grumpy resting face, as my family remind me). There are some interesting contrasts in this 2023 – it’s riper, spicier, and more big-boned compared to the lithe and pretty recent releases, with peppercorns and ripe strawberry fruit with these savoury streaks of mushroomy beefy heartiness, too. Maybe a bit more Shiraz-like this year, but that translates into a Pinot of presence with proper tannins and flavour.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and no probs to last out a decade
• Score (out of 20): 18
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 56
• Winery website: https://www.shawandsmith.com/
• Would I buy it?: a few glasses for sure