The dead serious new Ghostgum Vineyard Mornington wines

You can’t judge a book by the cover, but hot damn, these new Ghostgum Vineyard wines look classy.

The whole project oozes promise – it’s backed by the Joval family, better known as national wine distributors but also owners of the Rising Vineyard, Rockbare, Tar & Roses and Catalina Sounds. Their new project is called ‘Southern Light Vineyards’, which purports (great word that) to focus solely on ‘crafting exceptional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Australia’s most southerly cool-climate wine regions’.

Ok, that sounds a bit nebulous, though there is nothing blurry about the Ghostgum Vineyard – a 5.5ha plot at Main Ridge on the Mornington Peninsula that was historically an orchard and has been planted to grapes since the 1990s. I don’t know what it was called before Ghostgum, but that’s a not-insignificant patch of vines in prime Mornington wine country. Anthony Fikkers is in the winery, and he is a real talent.

When taken together, I shouldn’t be surprised that these Ghostgum Vineyard wines are impressive, even without the extravagant wax-dipped bottles. Again, you can’t judge a wine by the label, but the back story checks out.

And the wines? Let’s have a look:

Ghostgum Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

A blend of four different blocks, with some parcels 100% whole bunches, some 10%, some completely destemmed. All matured for 10 months in barrel and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Sounds like the real deal, no? Tastes like it, too. I have to pay close attention to how I view Mornington Pinot (as I’ve previously done some work for producers on the Peninsula). Still, it’s impossible to miss the dead serious intentions here. There’s this sappy, sapid, redcurrant and red raspberry Mornington-ness that is distinctive (and great) driving this Ghostgum Pinot. At some points, it looks a bit too serious – the tannins get a bit firm, and there’s a stemmy line, too. But it also just adds Pinosity and layers of complexity and interest. Conversely, I can see how the firmness could be divisive, although it’s part of this wine’s DNA. Best drinking: I’d like more time, please. A year would be welcome, then drink over eight years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $85.

Ghostgum Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Handpicked, wild fermented, barrel fermented in 20% new oak, with some components left unsulphured to go through malo, others not. You can see the contrasting characters of the different components. It’s ripe but crisp, classy, and with a complexity that talks of a restless winemaker. It just needs a bit more time to come together. Oh yeah, this has potential, even if it feels very formative. White peach, nectarine, ripe fruit and a layer of mealy funk. All the bits are in order, with wheaty, mealy winemaking influence, white peachy fruit, oak playing a part with tannins and more vanilla oatmeal. I can admire the flavour and complexity; it just needs patience. Yes from me. Best drinking: wait until next year, then drink over five years. 18/20, 93/100+. 13%, $85