Tasting Champagne textures with G.H. Mumm Cuvée Lalou 2006

Most wine-tasting events follow a pretty straightforward format. Winemaker/winery representative talks, wines are opened, and sometimes it comes with food. On we go.

But recently, G.H. Mumm brought a different show to town. This event, billed as an exploration of textures of Pinot Noir, was wine tasting with props – different physical elements intended to make you rethink how a Champagne might feel, created with the help of neuroscientist Gabriel Lepousez…

For the most part, this was just theatre—a glass ball intended to make things feel more rounded, for example, that didn’t do much, nor did the terracotta pebble.

But one texture really resonated—as you can see in the picture (below), it looks like a metal napkin holder, but with a solid leather side where the napkin would go and raised ridges on the other. One side is smooth, dimpled leather, and the other is firmer, with slightly sharp metal ridges.

Served with the 2014 Blanc de Noir below, this thing’s different tactile ‘sides’ changed the wine’s personality. Rub a finger while tasting; the wine tasted more red-fruited and easy. But the ridges? Edges. Somehow, the acidity felt more jagged, the flow more angular and raw.

Sure, it’s easy to believe the hype when you’re at a fancy dinner (at the Sydney Opera House, no less) and tasting top draw Champagne, but this was fun. And while the ‘standard’ G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge leaves me cold, these RSRV wines had a bit more specialness going on. The wines:

G.H. Mumm Cuvée Lalou 2006

Served as the final wine of this lineup and easily the most interesting Champagne of the lot. Ten years on lees, all Grand Cru fruit, aiming for the stars. There are just a handful of bottles of this left, incidentally. What’s fascinating is that this is still brighter than the 2008, in a nod to the grand 2006 vintage, yet fully complete. Man it’s bright and citrussy, so fresh and fine with this lifted creamed grapefruit freshness. Not profound, but a Grand Marques Champagne, with layers of biscuity lees and then grapefruity freshness. 18.5/20, 94/100.

G.H. Mumm RSRV 2014 Blanc de Noir

Nine years on lees. 6g/lite dosage. All Grand Cru fruit. Bone dry, ultra-serious and very long. Arguably a bit too extractive and firm, but that chewiness is impressive and worthy. A grand Pinot experience for Mumm even if it needs just a little more delicacy. 18/20, 93/100.

G.H. Mumm Cuvée Lalou 2008

There are no great vintage Champagne wines, just great bottles. This wasn’t a great bottle, for what is clearly a quality wine (disgorged 2021 FWIWI). Just a bit toasty and forward, I see shades of cardboard and dusty lemon, even though the core of creamed fruit and leesy weight feels right and correct. Please, give me another bottle to try. 17.5/20, 91/100.