The Lake George Vineyards look so innocuous from the road. How can this storied part of the Canberra wine world feel like it’s just a forgotten toilet stop off the highway? Every Canberran trip, I think about this (and apologies if you’ve read that before), but especially when the latest Sapling Yard Riesling lands on my doorstep.

Just like the 2023, this Sapling Yard Lake George Riesling 2024 comes off the White Rocks block on the pioneering Lake George vineyard (first planted in 1971). Carla Rodeghiero & Malcolm Burdett now make their Sapling Yard wines in the Lake George winery (which had sat unused for several years) and take fruit off the estate.

There’s a sense of brilliance to this wine too. It’s laser-sharp, with a white pepper zing, crunchy celery and grapefruit, pristine green fruit flavours, and so crisp. Snap fresh and long in a proper cool climate mode. Importantly, this bone-dry Riesling never feels hard, with perfectly natural acidity making this feel carefully defined, with bitterness, but not to the point of hardness…

I love this Riesling mode. There is a fair argument that it is too linear and too crystalline, but the pristine angles and compact intensity are pretty great.

Best drinking: I love it now. 18.5/20, 94/100. 11.5%, $32.

Also from the Sapling Yard sample pile:

Sapling Yard Gamay 2023

Tumbarumba Gamay in all its pretty flourish. 9 months in old oak, 150 cases produced. It’s a light, slightly twiggy, lucid but bony red that toys with underripeness, but trades in lithe energy. Very Tumbarumba, but not unattractive.

Best drinking: next five years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.9%, $35.

Sapling Yard Shiraz Viognier 2023

Canberra fruit here and includes 3% Viognier and 30% whole bunches. It smells like my student wine with some floral high-toned, unripe blackberry and dandelion notes of just-ripe Canberra Shiraz (and whole bunches). Fine-boned, arguably to the point of being a bit lean, the tannins are light and well placed, and this ultimately feels vibrant, if just a bit peppery and light-ish. Again, a pretty wine.

Best drinking: worth holding off for a few more years. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 13.1%, $38.

Sapling Yard Pirouette Chardonnay 2023

Tumbarumba Chardonnay that is aching for more bottle time. Lots of banana cream just-bottled Chardonnay vibes, oak that feels toasty and nutty, before a very cool palate. At the moment there’s a disconnect between all the elements – oak on top, a lean palate, brightness and delicacy but also a sparkling wine base lack of generosity too. Come back when it all comes together?

Best drinking: two years would be grand. 17.5/20, 91/100+.12%, $38

Sapling Yard Albariño 2024

We’re now in the Hilltops. Fleshy and lightly honeyed, it’s a peachy, stonefruit thing with a flush of juicy fruit and a Riesling-like citrus tang. A Riesling makers Albariño. It’s plenty fleshy, with just enough chalky tang, although you’d never pick the variety. Enjoyable fresh white, if a bit indistinct,

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $35.