Would you put your Orange Chardonnay against Grand Cru Chablis? The Origines boys did…

Blind tasting is a grand sport. No other exercise can so effectively take the bullshit out of wine while also threatening to blow up a reputation. It’s like a road cycling time trial (the race of truth) with a little bit of roulette for your ambitious winemaker.

And the two winemakers behind the Origines project are nothing if not ambitious. Alex Beckett (winemaker at Marnong Estate, ex-Briar Ridge & Draytons) & Jan Taborksy (winemaker at Topper’s Mountain) met through the masochistic dead end that is the Masters of Wine program (harsh? Look at the stats of how many Australian-residing men have passed MW in the last decade), where they bonded over their love of Chardonnay. A few chats turned into many, and they decided to start a wine label focused exclusively on cool climate NSW Chardonnay.

Excellent.

It’s especially excellent because NSW has a smorgasbord of cool Chardonnay plots and sites, from Tumbarumba to New England, that could use the attention.

The boys also decided not to compromise for their first trade launch and instead put on a blind-tasting all their wines against benchmarks in the Chardonnay world.

This is also excellent.

Moreover, the three Origines Chardonnay wines sprinkled through this tasting didn’t look overawed, even against what I think is the best Chablis I’ve tried this decade (which I liked so much I bought a bottle immediately, even if it cost a kidney).

When you dig into the winemaking, it’s easy to see why the Origines wines impress – they’re quality single-site expressions coupled with no-holds-barred winemaking. It starts with handpicked fruit, whole-bunch pressed and fermented wild with ‘natural fruit solids’ in Austrian oak. The wine then spends an extra amount of time on lees before bottling with no fining or filtration.

At this stage, the Origines range consists of just two—a New England Chardonnay (from Topper’s Mountain Vineyard) and an Orange Chardonnay. Both wines are treated similarly, so it’s just a terroir expression.

What a pleasure to see a terroir expression of fine NSW wine. As you’ll see below, the quality is there, too, just to reinforce that this is a fascinating project to watch.

Bracket 1

All wines were tasted double-blind, although I knew that Origines wines would be in the mix. Also, the RRPs below are estimates. Notes are written on the day, with extra background info in italics.

Brewer Clifton Sta. Rta Hills Chardonnay 2021

The longer I looked at this opulent Californian Chardonnay, the less I liked it. Perhaps it is out of place in this lineup of rather polished releases.

Ripe mandarin and grapefruit, banana and a honeyed oxidative note with an open, forward citrus nose of orange blossom and slightly forward fruit but bone dry underneath. It feels like it’s missing a middle. Heavily worked, but also pineappley and sweet/sour. Hmmm. 17.5/20, 91/100. $110.

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2023

This is the third time I’ve had this wine, and the first time blind. Hot damn, what a Chardonnay! It’s a masterpiece for fair dollars, and it’s not even the most cerebral of the Kumeu River wines.

Refined and classy, with banana oatmeal and a flush of rich and chewy flavour, this feels like top-tilt Aussie Chardonnay—quite grandiose for a leaner-styled Chardonnay. Such great polish – it just feels right and clever. 18.5/20, 94/100. $50.

Origines Focus New England Chardonnay 2022

When I first tried this wine earlier in the year, I thought it looked a bit too lean. But it gains weight every month, and the flavours integrate. This was a great showing – I thought it was French. Sourced from the Topper’s Mountain vineyard in New England.

Stony lemon citrus closed and fresh. Sulphides stick out a bit here, and the oak sticks out a bit, but this feels lean and French, with a long, lean but phenolic palate. High class, if a little raw, and a real Chablis-like bony charisma. Just need to fill out a little. 18/20, 93/100. $55

Bracket 2

Chacra Mainque Chardonnay 2023

I liked this, but it’s not quite gold medal territory. There’s something a bit too manicured about this fine South American Chardonnay—too perfect? As if it had been airbrushed. But that’s also being harsh—in another lineup, at another time, this super classy wine would probably win over me and anyone.

Clearly a new world wine. Really youthful, taut and primary with a taut closed lemon citrus nose. Clean, shy, very young. A bit shy for now, not harsh, though – it’s crystalline and beautiful. On a second look, this is very pure, but don’t shout it. It’s worth a plus sign. 18/20, 93/100+. $120.

Bindi Kostas Rind Chardonnay 2023

It’s achingly young, to the point where it’s all components. It’s worth revisiting next year—i.e., don’t drink it now. I thought this could had been the Origines wine. Ultimately I found myself aching for another layer.

Pristine white rocks, a bit of dried herbs, lemony and pure but shut tight. Very pure, oak and lemon, some cream but mainly lemony and so taut. Some oak phenolics. It’s nice, delicate, yet lemony and a little sour – that acid is very sprightly, and it all feels a bit jutting to be grand. 17.7/20+ 92/100. $70

Origines Focus New England Chardonnay 2023

Such a different wine this vintage. Much more layered, a bit wilder too. It works nicely with more expression. Easily the best of the Origines wines and a real highlight.

Plenty of funk to start, with a dominant sulphide milk bottle edge that almost goes into cheese. Much more winemaking character, but ho boy, is this a wine of contrasts – more fruit power, more layers. Has some swagger too. I really like it. 18.5/20, 94/100. $55.

Bracket 3

Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2022

Absolutely screams great Chablis. Emphatic drink. I bought a bottle and would do it again – it’s picture perfect, and so powerful!

Chablis-esque. Gravelly, ultra fine and refined. A bit grey and gravelly, waxy and ultra-high class. Super! Very long and perfectly formed. Wet rocks, just whipped cream, so stony and clean. Superstar Chablis, no doubt! That palate just goes on and on – can you pick a wrong angle? No. it’s creamy and clean, and wow. 19/20, 96/100. $260.

Origines Focus Orange Chardonnay 2023

Clearly, the Origines wine and felt like it hadn’t found its feet just yet, even though it was long and properly sophisticated.

Taut pineapple and lemon verbena citrus. Some phenolic grip. A little warm pineapple apple cream and taut citrusy acidity. The oak intrudes just a little, but it’s long and unfurling underneath. There’s so much underneath that I might be underrating it. Not quite there yet though as the flavours just aren’t delineated enough (yet). 17.7/20, 92/100+. $55.