The Custodian price hasn’t changed in a decade, which is a good thing, but the style also looks a little creaky, which is less good. Iron and red earth are aplenty, and you can chew the old-school leathery charm. This is McLaren Vale Grenache, and it feels quite a step away from the modern glossy ale mode. It’s a little gamey, a little horsey and a little raspberry syrupy, but it all kinda works in a rustic sort of way. It won’t win trophies, though plenty of earthy heart.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: nowish
• Score (out of 20): 16.8
• Score (out of 100): 89
• Alcohol %: 14.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 22
• Winery website: https://www.darenberg.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass