2023 was a tricky, wet year in the Yarra; even the smartest producers weren’t immune from the challenges. Martin at First Foot Forward has still delivered a fine Chardonnay, though. Sourced from the Lone Star Creek Vineyard, it’s lean and appley, with green and yellow apple cream and a little Aramis aftershave creamy floral richness. The palate, too, feels more delicate and primary in 2023 without the carry-through. That’s a disservice, maybe, because this is cool and well-crafted stuff.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: it will live and get better over the next eight years
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 12.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 38
• Winery website: https://www.firstfootforward.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a few glasses