The new Balgownie red that could be an endangered species

Could 2024 be the last-ever vintage for Balgownie’s famous 1969-planted Bendigo vineyard? Will the vines be flattened for houses?

It doesn’t look good.

In October, it was announced that the owners of Balgownie had officially sold the historic Bendigo property, including the vineyard, restaurant and winery, to what is rumoured to be a property group.

There will be no 2025 Balgownie Bendigo vintage, and all winemaking will be transferred to a contract facility. Tony Winspear, who has guided the Balgownie winemaking ship since 1994, will stay on for the transition, and there is hope that the vineyards will be leased back (but no guarantee).

Besides the obvious threat to what is a legendary property, it all grinds even more with this new wine on the bench…

Tony has flexed his oenology muscles with the Balgownie Estate No.4 2022, blending Bendigo Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Sangiovese (25%), Syrah (23%) and Merlot. All handpicked, with the Sangiovese and Syrah re-fermented on the Cab portion at five baume while the Merlot was blended in just before bottling, with maturation in 400 & 500L puncheons.

This is such a delicious wine – proudly Balgownie, with a distinct mint chocolate edge, it smells of dark fruit like a Cab but with these briary forest berry fruits too. Layers. There’s this grainy tannic Sangiovese vibe that is pretty proud, and a bit of tea leaf darkness too. A little Bolgheri in Australia! Just the slightest dark, bitter edge to the tannins makes this less pretty, and there is a molten caramel note. I really like this.

God, I hope this isn’t a Balgownie end point…

Best drinking: now or in a decade. No hurry, and better in a few years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.9%, $45. Would I buy it? Sure would.