Let’s get this year properly kicked off with a classy Pinot. Something that has Mornington authenticity and a sense of place and a reasonable pricetag. I don’t quite understand where Kangerong fits into the (high-quality) Crittenden Pinot/Chardonnay hierarchy, but the fruit comes from the original Crittenden Vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula. It’s super Pinot, too – succulent, sappy (in a good way) Mornington red with classic lines and that effortless, ripe-but-not-heavy Mornington red fruit weight. A bit of greenery for interest, but it’s more about generous raspberry and Pinositiy. Hints of bark, mulch, and ripe, tangy, almost ferrous, minty, lightly bacony edges. Lots going on, and ultimately delicious.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and over the next five
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 13
• RRP (in $AUD): 49
• Winery website: https://www.crittendenwines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: yes, yes please