Great Riesling, meh Rioja, ripper Verdelho – the surprising wines of Xmas 2024

Christmas is the best time of the year (to drink wine).

Compared to the rest of the year, the festive season is an excuse to dive into the Graham cellar rather than drink samples, as I laid out here. Our Christmas celebration was a week-long thing, too, which means there was no shortage of opportunities, with the final bottle count spanning eight countries, all sorts of different styles and lots of surprises.

Before we get stuck into a roundup of what looked good (or not so good), what drinks have you enjoyed in recent weeks? What would you buy again? Let me know in the comments, hey?

Let’s go:

Hello Primo Joseph Sparkling Red NV a real Aussie Christmas wine icon. Move over Grange! There’s some old Grange in the solera used for this one, too, FWIW. Meanwhile, there were two bottles emptied of the 2023 disgorgement during Christmas, each a little different (one more primary, the other more earthen and oak etched), both so enjoyable. The kicker with this McLaren Vale sparkling wine, as ever, is the shades – there’s this chocolatey Mars Bar and plum richness from the younger material (each year a portion of young McLaren Vale Cabernet and Shiraz is added to the solera) complemented by all of the darker, briary, brick dusty notes from the older museum stock (which includes fifty-year-old wines). The dosage sits at circa 20g/L, which might seem high, but the tannic grip cancels that out. The flavour spread goes on and on – olives and red earth, and then expansive Christmas cake flavour (but not warm, just rich) and cocoa dust American oak-tipped lavishness. Acres of flavour! It’s a wine to stick up to the fools who shitcan sparkling reds, plus it’s a magical ham wine. This ’23 disgorgement is drinking perfectly now, too. 19/20. 96/100. Would I buy it (again)? In a heartbeat.

I’d happily drink this Pierre Gimonnet Special Club Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay 2015 again too. The Gimonnet range was a highlight of this super Champagne tasting earlier in the year, and I bought a few for later. The ‘Terroirs de Chardonnay’ release is like a homage wine to different Champagne Terroirs, and it’s such a lithe, delicate light touch wine. A little too much delicacy, maybe, as I kept waiting for more intensity – that punch of fruit from low-yielding grower Champagne. But the beauty and effortlessness made this very drinkable and rather beautiful. 18.5/20, 94/100. Would I buy it (again)? I’d definitely go another bottle.

Intriguingly, I opened this Daosa Blanc de Blancs 2020 right after a bottle of Veuve NV and it was like a light turning on in the sparkling cupboard. Why drink inferior Champagne when this is on the menu? Yes, it’s closer to an Adelaide Hills Chardonnay with bubbles, complete with riper fruit notes to go with the oak and lees cream. But the satisfaction here is next-level – it feels mouthfilling, yet dancing along like a fine sparkling wine should. I liked it best straight out of the ice bucket as the winemaking was a little obvious as it warmed up. It’s a big recommendation, regardless. 18.5/20, 94/100. Would I buy it? Sure would, and I’d drink most of a bottle by myself.

Meanwhile, this Pommery Apanage 1874 Brut NV was nice but not going to turn heads – especially with a $180 pricetag. There’s a classy deftness of softly creamy flavours here, but after the initial prettiness this doesn’t have a lot of substance. Enjoyable enough but no second gear of intensity. Nice packaging, though. 17.7/20, 92/100. Would I buy it? A glass would be enough.

The obligatory Bollinger NV en magnum was a little ho-hum this year, clearly an average bottle. Plenty of classic Bollinger flavour, yes, but also a little maderisation on the edges (and the provenance here is A1 – straight from importer to professional storage). Cork vagaries? Maybe. Anyway, come back next celebration. N/R. Would I buy it (again)? I love Bollinger, so it’s a yes, but not this bottle.

Excuse my gnarly hand. Thankfully, the Heymann-Löwenstein Schieferterrassen Riesling 2021 was much better looking, with that perfect mix of ripe, stonefruit volume and slatey Riesling acidity that just feels so naturally perfect. It’s fuller-bodied than you might expect, and that’s why it works. Effortless. Joyful. Delicious. 18.7/20, 95/100. Would I buy it (again)? Yes, yes, please.

Served as a German pair with the Löwenstein above, but so very different, the Peter Lauer No. 12 Unterstenberg Riesling 2022 was a fascinating wine. There’s a little oxidative wildness, a flash of nutty natural wine fare and blonde highlights to this Riesling, but the palate tension is deadly serious, Riesling in a tailored suit territory. It’s not as easy to love as the wine above, but complexity and intrigue. 18.7/20, 95/100. Would I buy it (again)? Yes.

Speaking of tension, the Pewsey Valey 1961 Block Riesling 2023 walks the tightrope. Normally, Eden Valley Riesling starts to close down after a year in bottle, but this wine just keeps simmering. It’s briney, with a lime juice tang that feels special, and an uncommon intensity. Lemon myrtle says the back label, and lovely to see it here. It’s a bit austere, really but I loved it at first glass, and three days later it had barely moved. If anything, it’s too limey, uncompromising, and too serious. But wow, greatness. 18.7/20, 95/100. Would I buy it? Unquestionably.

Interestingly, the Pewsey Vale The Contours Museum Release Riesling 2017 was more approachable if less convincing. It’s in a funny development phase, with this toasty pineapple vibe that seems open, but the palate is a bit sweet/sour and unformed. I’d like to see a revisit in a few years to see if it all fits together. 17.5/20, 91/100+. Would I buy it? A glass or two.

You could look up ‘Wachau Grüner’ in the dictionary, and this Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Liebenberg Federspiel 2022 would pop up. White pepper, celery, grapefruit and clean lines for days. It’s a little lean, a little spicy, a little too linear and wonderfully refreshing. Picture perfect. Another wine that isn’t going to seduce, but I can fully appreciate this. 18/20, 93/100. Would I buy it? Several glasses.

On the topic of correctness, this Estate Argyros Santorini Assyrtiko 2022 has a blue chip feel to it. Saline, with that distinct citrus tang of archetype Assyrtiko, it all feels like the essence of Santorini, even if it doesn’t quite hit the extra depths of the truly sublime best wines from this Greek icon producer. Correct, ultra-refreshing, and understated in its delicious fresh form. 17.7/20, 92/100. Maybe more than that on a good day. Would I buy it (again)? Well worth a bottle.

Speaking of something representative, this Azores Wine Company Verdelho o Original 2023 is so far from what we think of with Verdelho that it’s an entity in itself. It’s close to the Assyrtiko above if anything (hello, volcanic island wines) but with an extra leesy, reductive edge. It all adds up to x-factor, adding a subtle creaminess to the stony freshness and a palate that deals in just-ripe white pear fruit and energy. Wonderfully enjoyable. 18.5/20, 94/100. Would I buy it (again)? Absolutely.

Meanwhile, I like the Les Quatre Piliers project so much, though this Les Quatre Piliers Chapitre 1 Sauvignon Blanc 2022 was just ‘good’. Distinct Loire Sauv character, yes, and coupled to a palate that has all the leesy, minerally, stony layers, although it feels a bit disjointed and all creamy angles. Quality, no doubt, but a wine for next year. 17.5/20, 91/100. Would I buy it (again)? A glass.

Hats off to Owen Latta, the Latta Jurassique Blanc 2022 is as close to the wildly mineral Jura Chardonnay as you’ll find in Australia (rivalled only by the super Crittenden Cri de Coeur wines). This is a less oxidative style than in some vintages, still sourced from a vineyard in Tarrington (western Victoria), and it’s a feast of contrasts. It’s waxy, a little nutty, more in the white fruit realm of the spectrum, and fascinating in all its marzipanny golden highlights, and then so mineral and lively. A smorgasbord of a wine, without being wild. 18.7/20, 95/100 (and I might be underrating it). Would I buy it (again)? Yes, please.

There’s always a place for Kumeu River Chardonnay in our house, even when I scratch the label on the wine rack. This Kumeu River Mate’s Chardonnay 2020 was nowhere near ready, though, and it needs at least another two years in a dark cool place. All the usual elements are there, with the carefully sorted oak and ripe fruit a feature, but it feels a bit stunted right now rather than lavish. We still enjoyed a bottle, but not quite superstar status. 18/20, 93/100+. Would I buy it (again)? I’ll wait for a while before opening another of these.

Continuing a theme, this Vignerons Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown Brunnen Chardonnay 2022 was crystalline but also unready, with oak thrusting forward over what is such a tight and taut palate. Lovely delicacy, though way too contained for drinking now. 18/20, 93/100+. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle.

My photo of the Domenica Chardonnay 2023 was so bad that it’s just not worth putting up here, so we’re rolling with a stock image. I really shouldn’t have opened the Domenica either, as it was so backward that I was wasting everyone’s time. This is a great wine, but it needs years for all of the ideal elements to be fitted in – the oak looks a bit popcorn-y, the acid so taut, the wine all promise and perfect lines but not quite in the pleasure zone. Same score as above, but it feels more about structure than drinkability. 18/20, 93/100+. Would I buy it (again)? I’m not opening any more for 2-3 years.

You can happily dive into this Curly Flat Chardonnay 2019, however, as it is in a prime drinking zone. Golden, full bodied but fresh in a very Macedon Ranges way, it’s a wonderful full bodied Chardonnay that I thoroughly enjoyed. The oak and oak tannins were a little noticeable in this bottle, but the overall effect wasn’t derailed. High quality. 18.5/20, 94/100. Would I buy it (again)? My last bottle and I’d gladly have another.

No surprises that this Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2022 rose up to be one of the best white wines of Christmas. It looked sublime as a blind wine a few months ago and even more piercingly intense on the table here today. Actually, it looked a bit young and raw this bottle, so the plus sign comes into play (for drinking later). The length of this very classic, taut-but-not-hard Chablis is just brilliant, regardless. It’s almost chewy, with the extract and intensity driving the whole package. Super. 18.7/20, 95/100+. Would I buy it (again)? I can’t afford to, but would happily have all of the bottles.

I like to cross the whole spectrum of drinks at Christmas, which means a few warmup/warm down beers are required. This perfectly balanced White Bay Canyonstone West Coast IPA had just the right balance of hop-forward bitterness and refreshment for me – easily the best celebratoy beer of summer.

Indeed, Christmas in Sydney is nearly always too hot for reds (unless they’re chilled), and especially if you’re in al fresco mode like most Xmas dining ends up. This Cobaw Ridge Pinot Noir 2021 was a stand out though, with all sorts of interesting flavour nuances. There’s a purpleness here that I can’t put my finger on – it’s like an exotic plum, and a flavour that I more associate with Central Otago Pinot. Intriguing. A little minimal intervention wildness to give interest, but not enough to derail the lovely, firm, powerful, perfectly handled flavours. Real good. 18.5/20, 94/100. Would I buy it (again)? Sure would.

I thought this Yalumba The Tri-Centenary Grenache 2017 looked a little meaty in 2021 but stuck a bottle in the cellar to see what would happen. It looks even more meaty, spice-driven, baked and secondary now, in a way that is super interesting but not all that easy. Power, interest, intensity, alcohol warmth and such in droves, but it was a better wine three years ago. 17.5/20, 91/100. Would I buy it (again)? Just a glass.

This Road Reserva 2010 had probably seen better days too, which really surprised me. It may well come out the other side and deliver a more rounded, earthen mode as an old wine, but right now it just looked a bit dried out with oak the main structural element holding the red dirt and tannins in place. It’s a solid mature Rioja, but I was a bit disappointed as I loved this wine a decade ago. 17/20, 90/100. Would I buy it (again)? Not based on this bottle. Drink up.

From the pile of wines I’ve been meaning to check in on, this Bibi Graetz Testamata 2018 didn’t disappoint at all. It’s a surprisingly graceful Tuscan red in many ways, with more mediumness than I remember and plenty of classic forest berry Sangio character. Great tannins, in the sandpaper-y Sangiovese mode too, it feels silken and right. Nice. 18.5/20, 94/100. Would I buy it (again)? I’m still not quite there on the price but I’ll still happily have more.

For our final check-in on a wine from the cellar, another bottle of the Raymond-Lafon Sauternes 2017. Fantastically, this is easily the best bottle I’ve had from this case, and it lobbed up like another wine archetype. Honey, creme caramel, just a little marmalade (but it’s not heavy), you’re in Sauternes perfection here, with toffeed cream subtlety as well as expansive sweetness. Why pay all the dollars for d’Yquem (which shares a fence with Raymond-Lafon) when this is 1/6th the price? Glad I have half a case left. 18.7/20, 95/100. Would I buy it (again)? Gladly.