Following closely on the Harewood in all its golden weightiness, this Taylors St Andrews Chardonnay 2022 sure looks bigger and riper than the 12.5% alcohol on the back of the label. It’s Clare Valley Chardonnay, so I don’t expect delicacy (ever). But this is a study in oak tannins, peach juice, creamed peach. Peaches and cream. Lots of flavour (which is no doubt how it picked up all the medals shown on the label), and capped off with a taut enough finish, but the whole shebang is delivered clumsily and a bit sweet and sour. The volume gets this to silver-medal quality, though definitely not my thing.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: over the next few years
• Score (out of 20): 17
• Score (out of 100): 90
• Alcohol %: 12.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://www.taylorswines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: probably not no