It’s frustrating that d’Arenberg’s Dead Arm Shiraz is a mercurial has become. This is a storied McLaren Vale Shiraz from a storied producer. But hey, variability only makes it more welcome when you come across a better wine. This 2019 Dead Arm has the weight, the rum ‘n’ raisin warmth, and this wall of thick, deep, hearty McLaren Vale Shiraz width. This is a wide red wine that fills your mouth and senses and still looks youthful at six years young. There’s a layer of leaf litter development and this opulent palate of deep, inky, black fruit thickness. The black earth d’Arenberg edge (and black earth tannins) makes the finish savoury to counterpoint the thick wall of dark, very lavish fruit. It’s not my sort of wine, but I can absolutely appreciate the mode.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: nowish and over the next few years
• Score (out of 20): 18
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %: 15
• RRP (in $AUD): 78
• Winery website: https://www.darenberg.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass