I’m on an affability bent at the moment, and Ben Luker’s Meredith Wines really fit the ‘let’s make drinkable wines’ mode. Bright colours, thoughtful handling, affordable pricing – the Meredith Wines follow a likeable format. On the bench today are two new western Vic Grenache to demonstrate this.

We can start with the Meredith New Tricks Grenache 2024. This is Grampians Grenache from the Arrawatta Vineyard, picked early, fermented wild, and rested for just a few months in old. It’s a juicy, light touch style with light, slightly furry, red currant and red cherry fruit. A bit confected and very primary, but that’s part of the vibe. Light and lithe, it’s easy to dismiss this, but it’s refreshing, if a bit underpowered. Best drinking: nowish. 17/20, 90/100. 12.5%, $29.

Meanwhile, New Tricks has an older brother, the Meredith Top Shelf Grenache 2023. This follows the same formula as the less expensive wine, but it spends an extra 12 months in oak. There’s an extra layer of dark spice here, and a little chocolate filling out the middle, although still cast in a lean and subtle red fruit mode. Liveliness, and very much the modern expression of Grenache drinkability, even if I’d like a little more ripeness. Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12.5%, $39.95.