That grapefruit acid line is unmistakable. Margaret River Chardonnay, in all its flourish, has a really distinct personality that I love. It’s not a neon sign that says, ‘fuck yeah, Margaret River Chardonnay’, but still something that I see as very persuasive. And this Juniper Cornerstone Wilyabrup Chardonnay 2023 is here to persuade you. Drawn from the 1973-planted Juniper Wilyabrup vineyard, this wild fermented, lees-stirred, unfined Chardonnay feels so right. It’s only 12.5% alcohol, and yeah, the acidity is pretty prominent (especially as the malolactic fermentation is blocked), but it drives this wine into mouthwatering territory. There’s still this yellow gold, nutty, slightly leesy, golden side that gives body and weight to complement that perfect grapefruit tension. A quick peek at the winemaking notes (which I don’t like doing until after I’ve tasted the wine) and I see this is all classic Gin Gin and Clone 95 clones (the Margs Chardonnay OG clones), just to reaffirm why this tastes so classically regional. Beyond just being from a place, this Chardonnay is deliciously balanced – that taut but sorta lush and golden style is an ‘I’ll drink the whole bottle’ proposition, and even the price is (contextually) reasonable. Hell yes.
- Best drinking: now to a decade plus. Probably even better in two years
- Score (out of 20): 18.7
- Score (out of 100): 95
- Alcohol %: 12.5
- RRP (in $AUD): 65
- Winery website: https://www.juniperestate.com.au/
- Would I buy it?: in a flash
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