We’re on a Riesling roll today, so why not cap it off with four current releases from the guru Rob Diletti at Castle Rock Estate in Porongurup, WA?
For some backstory, you really should start with my interview with Rob Diletti here. While he fits more of the salt-of-the-earth vigneron mode than a modern, rockstar winemaker, Diletti takes his Riesling incredibly seriously, with a swag of wines that cover the whole Rizza spectrum.
I covered off the provocative 2023 Diletti Riesling last month, and today, it’s time to fill out the rest of the Riesling range. 2024 in Great Southern hot, dry and one of the earliest on record, although you don’t really see it in this bracket of wines. There’s perhaps some early picked awkwardness rather than ease this year, but I certainly didn’t feel like the wines lack shape like some 2024 WA whites. Kudos again to the Porongurup Riesling guru, eh?
The wines:

Castle Rock Estate A & W Riesling 2024
A & W is named after Angelo & Wendy Diletti, who founded the estate. Angelo still works around the vineyard too (he can’t help himself, apparently). This Riesling typically comes off the oldest vines on the property and spends 5 months on lees in tank. Crunchy green fruit, fresh florals, a bit of celery, pithy lemon acidity. So pithy. It’s just a bit firm and grapefruit right now, but the shape is perfect – this is a swaggering, powerful Riesling. I’d come back in a few more months (or even six) for max enjoyment, but the underpinnings are high quality. 18.5/20, 94/100+. 11.8%, $50.

Castle Rock Estate Skywalk Riesling 2024
This is the most affordable wine here, and honestly, it’s the most drinkable of this whole bracket. Crunchy green fruit, lemongrass and grapefruit, a bit more lemongrass this vintage and quite pithy. Super linear, crisp and refreshing. Can’t fault the style! Maybe a bit more crunch and less width this year. A less floral and expressive wine than the Estate Riesling, but also doesn’t have the same pithy bitter edge. A winner. 18/20, 93/100. 11.5%, $28.
Castle Rock Estate Riesling 2024
An interesting release of the classic Castle Rock Estate Riesling. It’s quite floral, with green banana and jasmine. A pretty, high-acid wine of lightness. Maybe not the punch in 2024 – there is an early-picked celery vibe here. It’s still rock solid and definitely has a bit more length than the Skywalk, if a bit of curry leaf and grapefruit bitterness too. The only way is up. 18/20, 93/100+. 11.5%, $35.

Castle Rock Estate RS21 Riesling 2024
RS21 – 21 grams of residual sugar. It’s a better-balanced release of the off-dry Castle Rock Riesling, but it doesn’t need the sugar in any way, shape or form. In fact, there are few Riesling releases from anywhere in WA that look better as off-dry wines, and I’m happy to die on that hill. Anyway, this has fresh green grapefruit, but also papaya and melon juiciness. The sweetness creeps up on you and never looks overt, just juicier. Of course, it’s not necessary but it doesn’t ruin the palate. Drinkable, and sneakily well balanced, but all the other wines in this quartet are better drinks for my money. 17.7/20, 92/100. 11.5%, $28.
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3 Comments
Great reviews for a set of world class rieslings Andrew. Thanks for that. I’m currently having another Diletti influenced wine from just down the road, the Duke’s Magpie Hill riesling from 2023. Great part of the country over here for this noble grape! 👍👍
I just opened a bottle of the 2021 RS21. It was good straight away, even if the acid is a little too bracing, but several hours later it was more balanced and superb. I reckon another 3 or 4 years and it could be magical.
To be fair I’m partial to an off-dry style and with German wine prices in the stratosphere I support more of this experimentation. There’s something about the vibrancy of the fruit that means none of the Australian off-dry styles I’ve had here have been like the German Kabinett or Spatlese I’ve enjoyed. For some reason Australian Riesling tastes more textured, or concentrated than their German counterparts and for me that means the finish is heavier. Be interesting to see what it looks like in another decade, when the off-dry versions get some more age.
Definitely agree that off-dry styles can be better wth more bottle age. Then again, if the balance is off from the start, then it is never right.