Crabilis Vermentino 2007, Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2007

Pala Crabilis Vermentino 2007
Whilst I can understand the attraction of rich and textural Vermentino, this quite well regarded wine feels like an ‘also ran’. I’d be interested in seeing a retail price, as I wouldn’t want to pay any more than $15-$20 retail. Further, this wine is definitely hindered by a cork closure – screwcaps would have probably earned this wine higher marks and lengthened its life considerably.

A full yellow colour, the nose is big, citrussy and open, with peach juice, cold tea and ripe pears on the nose, with an edge of (quite unwanted) toasty development creeping in. The palate follows with a broad, round and slightly hot flow of juicy fruit that is salvaged by late palate sweetness, rendering the otherwise rather round and bulky palate with some much needed drinkability. The finish ends off with some (again unwanted) alcohol heat and general ungainly developed fruit characters,

So I’d say that this is a rather disappointing dry white that lacks freshness and vitality. 15

Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2007
After the quite disappointing Vermentino this was like a breath of purity and sheer delight. I’m sorry to say that this is one of only a very small handful of 2007 Alsace whites that I have tried. Must rectify that, especially after this rather beautiful wine.

The wine opens with a nose that is positively delectable – its varietal, regional and just plain fantastic, with lifted honeysuckle over peach, grapefruit and a little melon. Distinctive and just plain delicious. The palate isn’t quite up to the task of the near perfect nose (I’m serious, the nose brought me back time after time) with some sour grip that slightly blunts the beautiful flow of honeyed grapefruit fruit characters. Pinot Blanc is tricky here, as age can dull its crisp edge or it can just enhance its honeyed complexity. I’m not sure what it will do in time, as the nose and the palate seem to be somewhat autonomous of each other. So I would suggest grabbing a couple of bottles, drinking a few now and a few in 12 months time, purely in the sake of research 🙂 . 18

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Andrew Graham Avatar

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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One response to “Crabilis Vermentino 2007, Albert Mann Pinot Blanc 2007”

  1. fabio Avatar
    fabio

    Dear Andrew, I've just read the review regarding the 2007 Crabilis Vermentino by Pala. As a general manager there, I would like to thank you for your honesty in reviewing our wine but, at the same time, I wold like to puctualize something about your review, because it seems that you tried an old bottle or a non well stored bottle, if you found that difects, and this could justify what you've felt trying this wine. Vermentino, generally should be drunk within a year or two from the harvest, generally we experimented that Crabilis could restist very well for two years even if the best time to drink this wine is from the 6th to the 18th month from the harvest. The reason why I'm posting this comment is that, particularly the 2007 for Crabilis was a very lucky year, it won the Silver Best in Class medal at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London and a huge amounts of reviews around the world, just google it to find some of this. Not only, but usually this wine year after year is the most awarded and reviewed vermentino from Sardegna, and honestly we only got good to outstanding reviews. That's why it seems you tried the wrong bottle.
    Talking in general about the Verementino grape variety I can tell you that this grape need to be well riped if you want to obtain an elegant and well balanced wine, even if it's 14% alc/vol, if you expect to try a light alcohol vermentino… maybe early havested it'll be ok, probably…but just an empty citrously pale yellow vermentino, very nice to be used to cooking something, as it wont have nothing more as the grape at that stage doesn't give so much to the wine, and again if you're looking for an higher acidity, please consider that Vermentino is a seaside Mediterranean grape, not from Alsace or Alto Adige, just to stay in Italy, and I say that even if most reviews about our Crabilis say about the extraordinary acidity and the balance that this wine have. Obviously who say that know very well the terroir, the weather and the conditions of Sardinia, and of this part of the Mediterranean.
    Regarding the closure system, you're probably right, a screwcap is perfect for a white or a red that should be drunk within a year or two. But we have to say that first of all we are from Sardinia: the world's second biggest cork producer after Portugal, then we're from Italy, and the old world in general, just an example above all to stay on your side of the world, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is sold in screwcap througout Europe with the exception of Italy, France, Spain and Germany where is sold with a natural cork closure.
    Anyway, if you ever would like to try again a fresher right vintage of our Crabilis Vermentino or if you fancy trying Stellato a late havest – but dry – Vermentino, do not hesitate to contact me or Negociants Australia (our distributor) we'll be happy to send you some sample.
    with best regards and ciao from Sardinai
    Fabio Angius (CEO)
    fabio(at)pala.it

    Reply

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