Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Coonawarra, SA)
13.5%, Screwcap, $40
Source: Sample
www.katnookestate.com.au

It’s always a tricky proposition trying to assess Katnook Cabernets when young, their firm tannins and all encompassing sweet coconut (American?) oak making them taste like barrel samples until they hit about 5 years of age. Still, if you love the wine this is a very smart edition.

Notably darkly coloured, this has a very sweet, oak-and-more-oak nose with a palate that too is oakalicious, warm hearted and luscious. Beyond the oak is rich dark chocolate edged fruit, even if that fruit is hidden at this stage. Tannins look softened and creamy too.

Personally I don’t think I could quite drink much of this at present, that oak more than a little heavy handed. Still, I can absolutely acknowledge how openly, lavishly, oak sweet appealing it is and how good it will likely look in years to come.

Drink: 2015-2025
Score: 17/20 90/100
Would I buy it? Not yet. With more age maybe.