From the bookend vintage of what was a pretty horrible run of drought years in the Pyrenees, this really should be a wondrous wine, from a producer I love.

I’m not sure what happened with this bottle though – did it spend too much time in the back of someone’s car? Can only judge what was in this glass, and suffice to day that I expected more – the fruit profile is jammy and bulky, the flavours stewed and lacking in intensity. Where is that black pepper twinkle? Even the oak looks like a clumsy addition to the wine, replete with resinous oak tannins.

I’m intrigued now, for this is not the Dalwhinnie I know…

Drink: 2014-2018
Score: 16/20, 87/100
Would I buy it? Not on this showing…