From the notebook treasure-trove: Tahbilk verticals

I’ve been doing a bit of cleaning this weekend and, in typical form, have turned up a whole treasure-trove of old tasting notes from last year that have never seen the light of day.

While some of these notes are a bit irrelevant now (and let’s not dwell on how hard it is to read my own writing), there is some real goodies in amongst them – like these scribblings from a set of Tahblik verticals hosted by Alister Purbrick last September.

I’m going to be transferring more notebook highlights here onto the blog in weeks to come, but I think this is a perfect way to start.

More then just the wines, what was just as interesting in this tasting was the little contextual snippets that Alister offered on the day, including:

The water mass effect

– I’ve never thought about this, but the Nagambie Lakes sub-district (part of the Goulburn Valley) is apparently the only wine region in Australia to be heavily influenced by an inland water mass (the Murray River doesn’t quite count as much of the vineyard land is planted well away from teh river, amongst other things). The advantage of this water body is that it moderates heat up to 3kms from the water, helping to prevent frosts (in particular) softening the heat spikes and reducing the lows.

A ‘working museum’
– Alister calls the Tahbilk winery a ‘working museum’ with the open old 152 year old vats giving ‘mid palate structure’. Old oak is still a key part of the winemaking with new oak ‘something we try to avoid being obvious in our wines’ according to Alister. Large format oak is still the key to wines like the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

The wines

A caveat – these notes are as written on the day, which was over a year ago. Luckily I wrote reams of notes for this tasting. Oh and I marked very hard…

I’ve also included the HDD (Heat Degree Days – explained here by Geoff Weaver) for each vintage as a nice little reference point for vintage warmth (the average HDD for Tahbilk is 1593).

If there is to be any conlusion to come from these verticals it is that the Tahbilk style is very age-worthy, with many of the 90s wines still having a decade or more in them. That 06 1860 Vines Shiraz has Grange-esque levels of concentration and power, with the 02 1927 Vines Marsanne a wonderfully intriguing white wine to match.

Marsanne

Tahbilk has over 100 acres planted to Marsanne, which is apparently the largest single Marsanne plantings in the world, complete with some of the oldest vines to boot (although Chapoutier recently found pre-phylloxera vines in Hermitage).

Oak is generally avoided in the Tahbilk Marsanne as it ‘tends to bring (the wine) forward’ (according to Alister). As ever the value of what is effectively a sub $20 wine can’t be overlooked. The best vintages (like the 2006) will go twenty years without even trying.

The only challenge with this Marsanne vertical is just how much better the 1927 Vines wines looked – a whole other realm of complexity and power.

‘1927 Vines’ Marsanne

In contrast to the ‘standard’ Marsanne, this is produced from the oldest vines and picked (by hand) earlier. In the winery the handling is a little more oxidative too. The move to screwcaps in 2003 was a huge step towards improving the consistency of these wines – huge problems with premature oxidation before that apparently.

Tahbilk ‘1927 Vines’ Marsanne 2003 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1818, 10.5%, Screwcap

Again the pine lime splice of the ‘standard’ Marsanne but set richer and creamier. A much bigger, thicker and creamier mouthful, chalky acidity to finish. Love the extra creaminess and big chalky sweet punch. Lovely. Amazing how much softer that acidity is compared to the normal 03 Marsanne. The extra intensity works wonders. 18/20, 93/100+

Tahbilk ‘1927 Vines’ Marsanne 2002 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1455, 12%, Cork

Even more defined. Dry, long and slightly creamy, I love that creamed pineapple sweetness and the acidity here looks the most natural and supportive. Has a certain complexity and depth of toasty, hay but dried lemon flavour. Long and really intriguing. Quite open and affable really, but still brimming with acidity. Like a richer Hunter Sem and utterly delicious. 18.5/20, 94/100

Tahbilk ‘1927 Vines’ Marsanne 2000 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1587, 11%, Cork

Caramel and slightly maderized nose – much more butterscotch. Love the creaminess and richness of butter menthol fruit. It’s starting to look tart and a little oxidised now but love the length and hint of caramel cream. 17.8/20, 92/100

Shiraz

The Shiraz style at Tahbilk is about ‘spice, always red fruit and sometimes some chocolate‘ according to Alister, built with ‘savouriness but not earthiness’ – not many other regions have that – it’s more of a Hermitage character’.

Tahbilk Shiraz 1991 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1838, 13%, Cork

Bricking but still bright red core. Strongly earthen, secondary, coffee nose. Coffee entry, slight raisining, fine, black olive tannins. Old but of some freshness. Treacle old wine edges but still fresh enough to drink. Coming back it looks more confected and skinny. Decaying quickly. Nice enough 16.5/20, 88/100

Tahbilk Shiraz 1999 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1665, 13.5%, Cork

Quite a dark ruby red. Bound, slightly ferrous nose. Excellent thick tannins, late alcohol warmth. Rather Secondary but nicely meaty. Holds together well. Maybe a little anaemic to finish. Still has a lovely grainy tannic finish. Nice mid-weight wine of tannins and length. Classic Tahbilk. 17.5/20, 91/100

Tahbilk Shiraz 2006 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1803, 14%, Screwcap. Some younger vine fruit in this wine.

Sweeter, more coffee grounds, more dark berries (more oak?). A little sausage meat. Love the blackberry fruit and rough cut tannins. I wonder, does that young vine fruit add a little plummy juiciness. So solid for a $15 wine! Great tannins for a cheapy too. 17.5/20, 91/100

Tahbilk Reserve/Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz

Effectively a best barrels/best vats blend, and usually largely from the ‘1933 vineyard’ with smaller parcels from the 40s, 50s and 60s vineyards (as you can gather Tahbilk name their vineyards after when they were planted). From 1994 onwards there was both a Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon in this range.

Tahbilk Reserve Shiraz 1997 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic) 
HDD 1649, 13.5%, Cork

Rather madeirized and candied. There’s some herbal elements and desiccation, indicating mixed ripeness Nicely composed tannins the only positive. Average. 16/20, 87/100

Tahbilk Reserve Shiraz 1999 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic) 
HDD 1665, 14%, Cork

Heavily liquered and tannic, very black tarry dark choc cocoa bean nose. More softening red fruit, again warm, red ruby fruit. The clincher is those meaty, refreshing tannins. Definitely cast lighter but pass the cheddar for that structure! Will live for ages too. Like. 17.5/20, 91/100

Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick (ESP) Shiraz 2006 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1803, 14%, Screwcap

Nutty and Carmel nose, with a dark, coffee edge. Really thick and richly coffeed (oaky) palate. Those tannins seem softer in context. Definitely some Grenache like candied fruit. Lovely softness in this wine. Interesting to see the oak influence though. 17.8/20, 92/100

Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick (ESP) Shiraz 2007 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 2042, 14.5%, Screwcap

Veneer of oak. Real plushness to that fruit and oak but can’t hide the bitter tannins. Has rich fruit but essentially overripe and lacking enough freshness to be convincing. 16.5/20, 88/100

Tahbilk ‘1860 Vines’ Shiraz

Sourced exclusively from the remaining vines planted in the 1860s. Mainly Hermitage clone in the block with longer bunches and small berries. The Oct 06 frost hit this block hard and the vines aren’t being replanted. Down to just 90 dozen per year now (about 6 barriques).

Tahbilk ‘1860 Vines’ Shiraz 1992  (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1798, 12.5%, Cork

Bricking but still ruby. Much lighter in context. Meaty haunch nose with red dirt. Really quite sweet fruited and fresh through the middle this looks really genuinely good, if slightly mushroomy through the finish. Love the generous middle palate. Lovely old Australian wine of delicious fullness and complexity. 18.5/20, 94/100

Tahbilk ‘1860 Vines’ Shiraz 1999  (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1665, 14%, Cork

Just a little raisined and coffeed. Again quite sweet but this looks rather dry porty and cooked, the acidity added and blunt. The shape of the tannins is harder, plumper, rougher. Not as convincing in this lineup, but still of some depth and richness. 17/20, 90/100

Tahbilk ‘1860 Vines’ Shiraz 2006 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1803, 13.5%, Screwcap

Such nutty, polished interwoven oak. Very firm and backward nose, heavy toast oak on this puppy. Lovely mid palate if very backward and contained. Length is gold medal quality though. Really very long. Exceptional quality of coffeed fruit. Very savoury finish. Very contained. Slightly PX like in its black intensity. Quite extraordinary in its power and weight. Top shelf wine. 18.7/20, 95/100

Tahbilk ‘1860 Vines’ Shiraz 2007 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)HDD 2042, 14%, Cork

Forward and nutty. Coffeed warm and open. Very plush and even juicy but is it a superstar? Perhaps a little scorched almond fruit. Skinny tannins. Not of the class of the 06. 17.5/20, 91/100

Cabernet Sauvignon

This is never 100% Cabernet due to the inclusion of about 10 % Cabernet Franc and a little Merlot post 2000 vintage. Alister believes that the Merlot  ‘gives mid palate, doesn’t add to the structure‘. There is a ‘dominant mint character in Tahbilk Cabernet, along with a natural vanilla and anise’ (the vanilla and anise is considered much more desirable). Careful blending helps to avoid excessive mintiness.

Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 1991  (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1838, 12.5%, Cork

Brick edges, still bright middle. Very solid compared to the Shiraz. Minty nose, very minty. Too much mint for mine, the finish a bit green too. Pleasant and mid weight but stunted. 16.5/20, 88/100

Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)HDD 1808, 13%, Cork

A big mulberry wine with rich vanillin flavours – very big and berried. Super fresh and ripe mid palate, still carrying dry tannins. For its age and price this is absolutely superb. Will live for another decade or two no sweat. 17.7/20, 92/100

Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1648, 14.5%, Cork

More coffeed, more charcuterie. Smoky and a little bretty even? Wilder, more cranberry, definitely juicier and more red fruited and lighter than the 98. Pleasant. Skinny finish. I’ve liked this much more previously. 16.5/20, 88/100

Tahbilk Reserve/ Eric Stevens Purbrick (ESP) Cabernet Sauvignon

The first Tahbilk ‘Special Bin’ Cabernet Sauvignon was released in 1952 and follows a similar ‘best barrels’ mantra as the Shiraz.

Tahbilk Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)HDD 1509, 12%, Cork

Smoky and quite secondary nose. Really forward and underneath quite minty and slightly unripe tannins. A sweet choc berry overlay saves this but no mistaking the green tannins. 17/20, 90/100

Tahbilk Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic)
HDD 1665, 13.5%, Cork

Sweetly berried and juicy. Squishy berries and vanilla. A big and bulky palate with excellent tannins, that sweet but dry palate a real winner. Coffeed finish and drying tannins. Excellent. 18/20, 93/100

Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick (ESP) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic) 
HDD 1803, 14%, Screwcap

More natural vanilla and coffee. I love these big and bold dark tannins. Such luxurious tannins! Superb tannins. What weight. Its got this deep core of fruit and bold tannins. Anything but sweet blackness of dark berry core. 18.5/20, 94/100

Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick (ESP) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (Nagambie Lakes, Goulburn Valley, Vic) HDD 2042, 14%, Screwcap

Sweet roasted meat and a fruit relish edge. Minty fruit, sweet and sour, drying tannins and stunted fruit. Minty and mixed ripeness. Lesser. 16.8/20, 89/100