Stefano Lubiana Black Label Riesling 2012 (Tasmania)
12.5%, Screwcap, $27
Riesling is a little forgotten in the context of Tasmanian winemaking, seemingly overtaken by the charms of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Methinks there is considerable scope, however, for more Tassie Riesling’s like this – wines made with a little more palate complexity (derived from barrel fermentation and 6 months on lees in this case) and/or carefully judged sweetness.
In that context, this Stefano Lubiana is an impressively congruent wine, tasting wonderfully complete and assured with not a hair out of place. It smells quite Mosel Kabinett-like actually, with cut melon, grapefruit and white pepper, but tastes drier and more grapefruiy, the acid line not distorted by the RS on the palate, everything finishing juicy and luscious, punctuated with a soda water like briny freshness.
A very complete wine, needing perhaps just a little more fruit intensity to be absolutely sublime. Pretty close though (and a mightily enjoyable drink)..
Tasted: January 2014
Score: 18.5/20, 94/100
Would I buy it? Absolutely.
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Have you tried earlier versions of this Andrew? This sounds quite a bit different. Previous vintages a bit more missionary shall we say. I agree that this sort of take on Riesling can work well in Tasmania. We don't really need more Clare/Eden/Great Southern-style wines.