Two superb new Rieslings from WA’s Great Southern
Now here’s a new name to look out for in the world of WA wine.
Snake + Herring is the catchy label of marketer Redmond Sweeney and ex Howard Park (and Millbrook Estate) winemaker Tony Davis, the wines made using contract fruit sourced from prime vineyards throughout the Great Southern and Margaret River.
While the range includes a very smart Chardonnay (and others), it is this pair of Rieslings that are ultimately the end game, with the label first started largely as a vehicle to produce Great Southern Rieslings.
What i like most about these wines is the combination of ripe fruit and acidity – with no acid additions and with a portion fermented naturally in older oak, the wines seems juicier, softer, less aggressively dry than many other Australian dry Rieslings, all without losing the penetration.
If pressed I think I like the Mout Barker wine just a fraction more, but it’s a close run thing – both hit the spot. Fairly priced at $28/bottle too.
Snake + Herring ‘Teardrop’ Riesling 2013 (Mt Barker) 12.5%
There’s a lees/oak/yeast derived fleshiness to this wine that makes it almost cuddly. Almost. Still, the main flavours are all cut lemon and grapefruit, which is entirely classical for Mt Barker Rizza. The palate is slightly forward with a ‘big fruit’ richness of flavour that made me think of Jeff Grosset’s Springvale Riesling, although less limey and more grapefruit sherbet. After such a full palate this finishes dry, and clean – everything in its right place, though still a little wilder than the Mt Barker norm. A lovely wine, my only qualm is that it might be just a little forward (though many ’13 Mt Barker Rieslings are); Nice drink regardless. 18.1/20, 93/100
Snake + Herring ‘High + Dry’ Riesling 2013 (Porongurup) 12.5%
From the outset the stamp of the Porongurups is evident here, with the custard apple/white pepper aromatics and stony acidity that typifies Porongurups Riesling. There’s some slightly outré wildness here too, which only adds to the interest. The grapefruit and white melong palate doesn’t quite have the affability of the Teardrop Riesling – it’s a little more edgy than that – but the acid profile seems even more natural and focused. Lovely wine, again. 18/20, 93/100
While the range includes a very smart Chardonnay (and others), it is this pair of Rieslings that are ultimately the end game, with the label first started largely as a vehicle to produce Great Southern Rieslings.
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