This he calls a ‘chic aperitif’ and is proudly proclaimed as the first Prosecco in the Barossa. I can’t confirm that, but until otherwise that’s Dom Torzi’s claim.

Better still, this is about as far from the green apples and residual sugar Prosecco archetype as you’ll get.

Handpicked, basket pressed and fermented naturally before then spending 4 months in old barrels, it’s a full and vinous sparkling that feels a little like one a nouveau Loire cremant or even a bottle conditioned cider.

But you know what? It’s delicious. The lees and barrel elements give weight to the clean appley fruit, the acidity still prominent enough to keep things clean.

It’s perhaps a bit too full (and looked a little broad when warmer), especially compared to an equivalent Champagne, but on interest and weight this creams it (and it’s still vital and pure).

Round of applause.

Details: 12%, $25
Source: Sample, tasted Jan 15
Drink: 2015-2016
Score: 17.7/20, 92/100
Would I buy it? Yes. It’s delicious.
Buy online: Torzi Matthews website