Big heavy bottle. These Handpicked wines present well – they look and feel like nice wines.

If only they were a little more delicate. This is thick set with mealy oak and full, worked Chardonnay white peach flavours. That raw oak and yeast wall gives a wide brush of flavour, with great intensity, but also that sensation of being just too much to enjoy, complete with a dash of alcohol warmth.

An early noughties ‘more is better’ Chardonnay with no shortage of anything… but lesser because of it.

Details: 13.6%, Screwcap, $45
Tasted: March 2015, Sample
Best drinking: 2015-2020
Score: 17/20, 90/100
Would I buy it? Not quite.
Buy online: Handpicked website