Gundog have one of my favourite Hunter Valley cellar doors. Small. Cosy. Good service. Smart wines. One of the three cellar doors I always recommend visitors to the Hunter not miss, along with Scarborough (best overall cellar door experience) and Tyrrell’s (best wine range and sense of history).

This is billed as Gundog’s modern Hunter Shiraz and it’s a beauty. Bright purple/boysenberry purple red in colour it smells rather spicy, all smoky and sausagey varietal characters, sweet oak and a firm earthen edge. The fruit presents layers of purple fruit, an almost smoky edge, creamy oak and then a gentle, slightly tart finish.

Lovely purity. It’s too young – and looks it – but this is promising and pure fruited. Good stuff.

Details: 14%, Screwcap, $35
Tasted: April 2015 (sample)
Best drinking: 2015-2030
Score: 17.7/20, 92/100+
Would I buy it? I’d probably wait a year to really wanting to buy some. Promising though.
Buy online: Gundog Estate