Hanging Rock Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir 2013

Hanging Rock is probably better known for its wonderful dry grown Heathcote Shiraz and unique bubbles than Pinot Noir, the cool Jim Jim vineyard sometimes producing leafy wines (here blended with fruit from the Portree vineyard at Lancefield). Still, this Hanging Rock Macedon Ranges Pinot Noir 2013 is pretty seriously made. Think open ferments, twice daily pigeage and 1/3 whole bunches. Plus, a little leafy mintiness can be welcome in my books (Mint Slice is a delicious biscuit).

Dark ruby with a little purple; glacé cherry, mint and some stemmy spice on the clear and quite fragrant nose, the palate deft and spicy with cherry fruit and plenty of whole bunch spice.

As ever with Hanging Rock there is no shortage of acidity, which might polarise some, but the clarity and easy spiciness makes this quite appealing in its mode, the extra little bits of meaty cranberry fruit making this ultimately a quite complete wine. Sure, it’s a bit angular, but the density and freshness point to real Pinot Noir, probably best enjoyed with something gamey.

I liked this – it’s not seductive and juicy, but there’s genuine flavour here.

Details: 14%, Screwcap, $35. Best drinking: 2015-2021. Score: 17.7/20, 92/100. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle. Buy online: Hanging Rock website