Longview Devils Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Getting the balance right with Adelaide Hills Cabernet is clearly hard work. Too often, the styles either sway between astringent and underripe or fat, un-varietal and overripe. Or both. The middle ground doesn’t really exist (name a great Hills Cabernet?) and getting it right seems awfully hard. Hard, like when a variety just isn’t suited to a spot.

Anyway, the reason I mention it is that this wine has previously been all over the place. Ripeness never right. Except this year – this year is different.

Dark maroon red, it is great to see a little minty freshness on the nose. Varietal stamp ahoy. Indeed what follows is an utterly medium weight wine for Longview, the tannins quite firm but the eucalypt edged meaty fruit well balanced. Unforced and real. Sure, a tolerance of eucalypt is required, but the tannins and form here feel quite right.

This is still going to be a divisive wine, but in the context of label history, this is a win.

Details: 14.3%, Screwcap, $27
Tasted: May 2015 (sample)
Drink: 2017-2030
Score: 17.5/20, 91/100
Would I buy it? Not quite. But still I’m positive.
Buy online: Auscellardoor, Longview website