Another smart Frost Dodger from Dom Torzi

Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Shiraz 2013

Torzi Matthews Frost Dodger Shiraz 2013

Perhaps it the winemaking nerd in me, but I do love learning about the ‘details’ behind a wine. There is much to be learnt from how different people handle wine production processes, and all of it is interesting.

Anyway, the reason why I mention this is that the Torzi Matthews website is loaded with info. Exact yields, precise oak mixes and certain detail on the maturation. All of it there to see, which is refreshing for an industry known for bullshit and generally rubbish websites.

The Frost Dodger is so named as Dom Torzi and Tracy Matthews vineyard is at Mt McKenzie on the edge of the Eden Valley, their plot known for its frosty reputation and generally marginal-ness.

This wine, their flagship, is made using a portion of fruit dried in an apassimento method. When this rack-dehydrated fruit is coupled with the cool, slightly minty vineyard character you end up with something really quite unique. Stir in Dom’s restless winemaker experimentation (there’s that nod to differing processes again) and you end up with what is, typically, a wine of some complexity.

Indeed this ’13 fits that comfortably. Purple maroon coloured, this has a nose of molten purple fruit, chocolate and a little mint. Love the mint. Despite the alcohol, the only note of dried fruit is on the nose, the palate inky and purple jubey but quite pretty and balanced. Maybe even elegant (for a rich and full red).

This is real wine this. It doesn’t feel fucked with, or overworked in any way. Just rich, layered, minty and finely tannic. Well worth the investment.

Drink: 2015-2028, 18.5/20, 94/100, 14.5%, Screwcap, $40, Sample. Would I buy it? I’d certainly consider it. Will be a very healthy wine in five years time. Good price too. Buy online: Torzi Matthews website

 

Andrew Graham Avatar

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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