Rioja for the long haul: Muga Seleccion Especial Reserva 2010

Muga Seleccion Especial Reserva 2010

I’ve been a little slow in updates over the last week or so, spending too much time at Spanish beaches. Can’t help myself really.

But back to wine. Sadly I couldn’t fit in a visit to Muga when I was in Rioja a week or so back and I’m starting to regret it. The standard ’11 Crianza seems to pop up in bars all over the country, belying the mixed fortunes of 2011 (with ease). This Reserva is even better again, albeit so backward that drinking it now is folly.

A blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, with the remainder Mazuelo and Graciano. It spent 28 months in oak, mainly French with a little American. Interesting to see the Mazuelo in there, as it’s a grape that few Rioja producers persist with (good for acidity though).

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This wine looks deep and thick too – deep maroon red in colour, the nose all purple, cola nut fruit and liberal amounts of expensive cocoa butter and cedar oak. The oak is a bit confronting at this stage of proceedings, dominating nose and palate. Yet there is real depth and authenticity to the thick grained fudgey dark fruit and oak- it’s meaty, polished and thickly tannic every bit the modern red in a style that is to traditional Rioja what modern right bank Bordeaux is to the old school style.

Built to live for decades, with long powdery tannins, it is ridiculous to think that I bought a bottle of this in a local hypermarket for just €24. Score is conservative just because this is so undrinkable for now. Drink 2020-2040. 18/20, 93/100++

Details: 14%, Cork, €24 (Spanish retail)
Would I buy it? At this price it’s hard not too. I need more space in my bag…
Buy online: Wine Searcher