Following closely behind the ’15, and this looks rather similar (though obviously four years younger).

Golden straw, the lemon butter nose is surprisingly forward all things considered, with just a little hessian and butter. Underneath it’s still very classic and tight though, if quite marmaladey and chunky (botrytis? Not likely but it’s a character you see in bot) through the middle. Again, the finish is fresh and sprightly to bring things back again.

Classic intentions (and classic acidity), this is clearly classy, if just a little lumpy and unresolved for higher points. Best drinking: 2018-2028. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 11%, $50. Would I buy it? Not yet. In two years?