Now here is a top maker that slips below the radar. Vinea Marson is the estate of Mario Marson, the ex- Mount Mary winemaker and viticulturist who has now setup in Heathcote.

By chance I spotted that this Vinea Marson Heathcote Viognier scored 95 from James Halliday and my interest was piqued – serious Heathcote Viognier? Come at me!

I’m not quite as enthusiastic as James here, but this has some good bits. Barrel fermented (30% new) and then six months maturation in oak. Straw green yellow, there is some nice lift, with milk and white peach. I like the finesse of the oak and it makes for a textural wine with good acidity. Yet the variety seems a little sunk below the oak, and I wonder whether it might have been a more vital wine 12 months ago.

Still drinking pleasure here, but it didn’t move me much. Best drinking: 2016-2018. 16.8/20, 89/100. 13.5%, $24. Would I buy it? I’d go a glass.