All Saints Family Cellar Durif 2012

I’ve always wondered about how well Durif sells. Well suited to northern Victorian vineyards, no doubt, but still somewhat of an obscure variety in the scheme of things. Or is it?

This All Saints Durif certainly has the stuffing. Deep red with purple edges, it smells luscious and lavish, with a choc blackberry jam  melange of oak and dark plum fruit. Maybe a little cooked fruit in there too? Lots of plushness at every corner, the oak filling in the holes behind the purple plum flavours before the alcohol kicks in and then chewy tannins.

Lots to get your head around here, which is the core appeal of Durif. Come for the flavour, not any sense of delicacy, and you’ll appreciate this wine. Good effort. Best drinking: 2018-2032. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14%, $62 at cellar door. Would I buy it? I’d drink a glass or so with a massive steak.