Bird on a Wire Chardonnay

Now this is exciting Chardonnay. Caroline Mooney has channeled the ripeness of ’13 Yarra Valley into a wine of mouthful and grandiosity.

Straw green coloured, the nose is a fanfare of flavour. Nougat and lemon biscuits plus a little lanolin. Some sulphide funk, but importantly matched to swelling, mouth filling white nectarine fruit with cake batter richness in there too.

There’s a minor quibble here about warmth and breadth, but just when it looks to be too full and too much the finish tightens up and brings everything back to earth.

Clever wine, with a pomp that demands bombastic food like lobster. Drink it now for best effect. Best drinking: 2016-2018. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.2%, $35. Would I buy it? Sure would.