Bird on a Wire Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2013

Bird on a Wire Chardonnay

Now this is exciting Chardonnay. Caroline Mooney has channeled the ripeness of ’13 Yarra Valley into a wine of mouthful and grandiosity.

Straw green coloured, the nose is a fanfare of flavour. Nougat and lemon biscuits plus a little lanolin. Some sulphide funk, but importantly matched to swelling, mouth filling white nectarine fruit with cake batter richness in there too.

There’s a minor quibble here about warmth and breadth, but just when it looks to be too full and too much the finish tightens up and brings everything back to earth.

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Clever wine, with a pomp that demands bombastic food like lobster. Drink it now for best effect. Best drinking: 2016-2018. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.2%, $35. Would I buy it? Sure would.