If there is one winery whose new release wines I’d like to see with more bottle age it is Balgownie. There’s a sturdiness to the structure of the Bendigo reds which suggest they’ll a) live forever b) look better in 3-5yrs. No exception here.

The Balgownie Estate Centre Block Shiraz 2014 comes off vines planted in 1969. Not a bad year for new starts. All PT23 clone, it spent 15 months in 30% new French oak and looks every bit the deep, thick, long termer. Deep purple red, the coffee oak, with plum in there too. It’s tightly packed, the oak an outer coating, the thick, warm and very full palate underneath a compact ball, with whispers of pepper and sausage the limited escapees.

Oh yes, this is a long termer. It’s almost barrel-sample-esque in its youthfulness, the style savoury if just a little on the boozy side of things. Gee it’s long though. Unquestioned quality, if a mere pup. Best drinking: 2022-2032+. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 14.5%, $55. Would I buy it? Like to have some in the cellar for opening next decade.