Pirathon Black Shiraz 2016

Just when you thought the luscious, mega ripe, sweet-oaked ‘Parker-style’ Barossan reds have disappeared, up lobs the Pirathon reds. But for all the largesse, these are very good examples of the genre. Bold, but not cooked. The Black sits mid way in the range (Gold above, Silver below) and for mine it’s in the sweet spot.

Sourced from the NW Barossa (aka home of the biggest Barossan reds), it spends 2 years in 67% new oak. No questioning the impact – it’s massively rich, the nose crammed with dark choc, dark plum and so much oak. Oak is the second and third flavour here, after that wall of fruit. That said, it’s not a heavy wine, just a polished flow of oak-etched richness with genuine length and intensity. It’s not my preferred style, but I can absolutely appreciate the quality and appeal. Best drinking: Up to ten years as a start. Though that alcohol warmth might take over before that. 15%, $49. 18.5/20, 94/100. Would I buy it? Not personally, but I know plenty who will.