Pinot Noir from Riesling country.

It’s hard to leave my prejudices at the door, but that’s what it always feels like with Porongurup Pinot. It’s typically ripeness that is the challenge, with delicacy a missing component. Damning with faint praise, perhaps, but Castle Rock still do Pinot better than anyone.

This minty, aromatic and serious red lobs up plenty of varietal character, although shaped by tannins and a certain bitterness rather than elegance or generosity. Ultimately this aims high – and admirably intense – but needs a more approachable form to really win you over. Best drinking: up to seven years. 17/20, 90/100. 13.5%, $34. Would I buy it? Not really.