On recent form, I like everything Anthony Fikkers touches (like the Gamay). and this In Dreams Chardonnay 2019 is compelling wine.

From vineyards all over the Yarra with a smorgasbord of different treatments – some parcels went through malo, some not, the full blend spending 9 months on full lees. It’s a bony wine but not ungenerous, all svelte citrus with a whisper of something green in there. But there’s also a core of fruit, a density that is pure and compelling, helped along by a bit of grip and some late oxidative elements, all without a loss of purity, the finish tangy and taut. Another intellectual wine and entirely satisfying. The price is an anomaly.

Best drinking: now to five years plus. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $25. In Dreams website. Would I buy it? Would I ever.