Like clockwork, another Harewood Riesling lobs up, and like clockwork, it’s Very Very Good. This Harewood Estate Porongurup Riesling 2020 is my pick of the range, as usual, and it’s the fragrance that brings you in. Jasmine, gardenia, grapefruit. The whole Great Southern kit and kaboodle.

I’ve always been fascinated by how the big granite hill that is the Porongurup Range can give such aromatic delight. It doesn’t fit the narrative about Riesling dirt at all (but then again, the role of soil types is overrated anyway), and I like it.

Underneath, the acidity is just right, and the extra ripeness in this 2020 iteration makes it immediately delicious – pure, crisp and refreshing dry Riesling in the zone (again).

Best drinking: Great now. You can wait three to five years for the next drinking window, but I like this now. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12.5%, $30. Harewood Estate website (distributor Single Vineyard Sellers). Would I buy it? Sure would.