Review: Hickinbotham The Revivalist Merlot 2018

Of all the Hickinbotham Wines, this Merlot is probably the least naturally convincing. Still quality Merlot, just that its brothers are exceptional.

The winemaking, as ever, is a-grade. Wild fermented. 21 days on skins. 15 months in 50% new oak. The whole gamut. Interestingly, it includes 4% Petit Verdot which might be for structure? Like all the Hickinbotham wines this has a lovely coiffed texture, the high-quality oak a constant presence, folding into the ripe, almost fruit cake palate. Lavish oak is perhaps too much, but that palate plushness makes it pretty seductive stuff. Oak tannins to finish are a slight distraction too. Hmm. There’s an undoubted quality here, which is where I ultimately lie.

Best drinking: wait two or three years and then drink over fifteen. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $75. Hickinbotham of Clarendon website. Would I buy it? Give me the Cabernet, Franc or Shiraz instead.

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