Right, birthday over, we’re back to normal programming, and straight into a dead serious Tasmanian sparkling that spent over 10 years on lees.

This Moorilla Estate Cloth Label Late Disgorged 2007 looks the part, with a wonderfully tactile cloth label to amp up the packaging. It’s not as cohesive to taste, with the overt leesiness that is a feature of so many LD styles. Complexity or bust! Underneath there is plenty of acid and no shortage of flavour, built more like a big house, linear late disgorged style underneath rather than grower fizz.

Maybe I’m being a bit harsh, as ultimately this is quality Australian sparkling – and the score reflects it. But I’d expect greatness for this price/station.

Best drinking: now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12%, $149. Moorilla Estate website. Would I buy it? I’d have a glass or two, but couldn’t justify the dollars for a bottle.