The latest Angove McLaren Vale reds are very serious. You could close your eyes and imagine wines like this Angove Warboys Vineyard Grenache 2018 could have come from a small, inspired boutique Vale winery rather than a big volume producer that famously invented the wine cask.

It’s a little sullen at first, but that’s more a representation of the layers and layers to navigate. Ripe, almost glacé red fruit in a glossy form, the palate initially reserved but it gets more raspberried and more expansive as it travels through your mouth, before a finish that casts some background oak sweetness with welcome meaty Grenache character. It’s just a little warm, but for complexity and carry alone this is a winner – it feels considered, unhurried, detailed. Impressive.

Best drinking: I’d wait until next year and then drink over ten. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14%, $46. Angove website. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle easy.