While the label is nowhere near the titan of McLaren Vale wine it once was (the late 90s, black, wide-shouldered bottle era Tintara reds were exceptional), there are still some highlights, and this Hardys Tintara Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2018 is good value at least.

It’s surprisingly reductive at first, but that blows off leaving a Grenachey, jubey and quite hearty styled McLaren Vale red. It’s not the seduction machine of the best Vale GSM, but it is approachable and flavourful. Good BBQ fare. Best drinking: now to five years easy. 17/20, 90/100. 14%, $28. Hardys Tintara website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.