For Marlborough, which is driven by conservative winemaking, this is an outlier. Something different for Beavertown. This Deep Down Marlborough Pinot Noir 2020 hits all the right buttons too, even if I want a bit more to it (especially for the dollars).

This is natural wine, but with professional polish. Organic, wild fermented, vegan, no sulphur added. The whole kit and kaboodle. Yet it’s clean, vibrant, and pure too, just to remind that natural wine isn’t all mousiness and bullshit.

Great colour for the low alcohol – a real pulpy purple.  A passing note of vegetation on the nose, then a leafy, just ripe palate with pretty purple fruit, a CO2 spritz and then a real vibrancy. Exuberant fruit, which is great for a NAP production. Tangy too.

Not much below the surface, perhaps, but for immediacy and purity it’s a winner. And Deep Down wines? This label is going to be hugely popular, even with ambitious pricing like this. Best drinking: right now. Don’t delay. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.5%, $60. Deep Down Wines website (imported to Australia by Single Vineyard Sellers). Would I buy it? A glass.