Vinous and structured Grenache from the creative hand of Jason Schwarz. That’s the mode with this Schwarz Wine Co. Thiele Road Grenache 2018.

From a block near Bethany, it’s wild fermented and includes some whole bunches. Bottled unfiltered. Spiced cherry fruit. Curry powder. Ferrous plum and raspberry. It’s at once both ripe and full yet tangy and spicy and tannic, all making for a wine of presence but not ease of drinking. I like it though – no fucking around with this real Grenache. Best drinking: probably from next year. Likely plateau to go on for a good decade if the tannins don’t take over. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.2%, $45. Schwarz website. Would I buy it? A glass or two for starters.