I’d rather drink beer than most cheap Australian sparkling wines. Or Riesling. But there’s a small cohort of bubbles worth consideration. This Taltarni Brut 2015 is one of them.

In fact, most of the recent Taltarni/Clover Hill releases have impressed, with a level of detail and class across the spectrum (especially this). There’s plenty of yeasty complexity here, backed by lemon/apple fruit. The acidity is a bit lemony and firm, but that’s as far as the criticism needs. It’s simply fresh – no alarms and no surprises – and has an appreciable level of flavour and tastes like how bottle-fermented sparkling should.

Taltarni Brut 2015. Best drinking: now. 17/20, 90/100. 11.5%, $26. Taltarni website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass.