Dom Torzi & Tim Freeland’s Adelaide Plains powerhouse, this Old Plains Power of One Shiraz 2019 is an ode to the old vineyards in Adelaide’s outer suburbia – a region that has been largely forgotten (and deserves celebrating).

Ripe, yet not overripe, with a surprising rosemary and thyme juice edge to the dark fruit that is Eden Valley-esque. The palate is very rich – glycerol, alcohol and licoricey purple fruit drive this thing. It’s almost too much, teetering into excess, but drawn back into savouriness.

A surprise packet, that revels in dark fruit and intensity. Very good.

Old Plains Power of One Shiraz 2019. Best drinking: now to ten years plus. 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $35. Old Plains website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses at the very least.