Pyrenean or Pyreneean? Both sound dangerously close to perineum. Anyway, that’s the only lingering question about this Blue Pyrenees Estate Shiraz 2018, which is a poster child for what makes Blue Pyrenees reds great.

It’s a thick, concentrated, typically dense, tannic, and quite savoury red with lots jammed into every sip. It’s inelegant, sure, and a bit minty, but such impressive carry for $22 a bottle.

Blue Pyrenees Estate Shiraz 2018. Best drinking: now or in a decade’s time. It will live and live. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $22. Blue Pyrenees website. Would I buy it? Sure would. A bargain.